Hey, sorry for the delaying posting the blog, but getting access to the internet can be problematic out here in the ida Gwaii Islands. So here it is......
Next up I spent my day off hanging out with a fellow by the name of Dick Bellows. He is a local Haida tour guide and obviously knowledgeable about the people and their history, culture, traditions, and the island’s many points of interest. We left at 9:30 in the morning and didn’t get back until almost 6:00 that night. We took a circuitous route north, up to Tlell, Port Clements and then made our way south again after stopping at some key places. Briefly, we stopped at Dick’s ‘Big Tree’, in which his grandfather had found an old pot many years ago wedged up in the centre of the split wood at the bottom. He grandfather took out and used it the rest of his life. Dick has the pot in his home to this day. We then went to see an ancient cedar canoe that was left in the woods by Haida carvers probably a 100+ years ago. What an amazing sight to see such a thing. Again, I have included a picture that will give you an idea of what I’m talking about.
Next we went to see the world’s largest Sitka Spruce tree (above) and the photo shows me standing in the middle to give you a bit of scale. It is one freaken huge tree. Wow. We trailed along old back trails and forestry roads to get there, but it was worth the trip. The tree is over 700 years old and over 250 high. It was all interesting as Dick was full of old stories and tales about his island. Our final destination was to head west to Rennell Sound, which is the furthest westerly point in BC. It was wonderful and we had to cross the Coastal Mountains and then drop back down to sea level on the other side. An amazing day and to top it off when we got back we ended up going to another potlatch and ate way too much again.
Last night was great as well. I headed off on foot to Queen Charlotte City just to see the place. It was further than I thought, but I had fun regardless as I took along some
tunes and the sun was shining and the scenery along the highway was spectacular. The roadway runs along the Skidegate Inlet and it is incredibly scenic. I took some photos of the entryway to the little town to show you how pretty everything is kept. Buildings are either really interesting or very quaint and very well taken care of. One place of note was Marvin’s garden (below left). Marvin is a Haida man and loves to garden as much as possible. He says he and his wife spend most of their summers puttering around their home. Can’t say as I blame them as they look out on what I would consider one of the most beautiful views in the world. Tough to beat living in a place like this. Marvin says he never ceases to marvel at the beauty around him and often just stops to look and take it all in.
Today, I spent a bit more time with Dick and he took me again out toward Tlell and an area of the island that has a number of artisans. Some of these small stores carry handmade Haida art. Silver braclets, shell jewellery, carvings, paddles, bowls, cedar bark hats, incredible paints, and and gold and silver pendants. Ha, at one point I whispered to Dick that I needed to get out of there before I spent horrible amounts of money. Ha, I departed with a card and a present for each of my daughters.
One of the more interesting places was where Noel lives. He also likes to garden, but wow this place was over the top unique. He is incredibly talented. There are flower beds and garden walkways and chickens running around to keep pesky bugs away. These are accompanied by pet ducks and a trumpeter swan he and his wife rescued some time ago. Apparently, someone had filled it full of buckshot and the swan approached his wife, injured and bleeding. This beautiful creature would certainly have died without their help. Noel said it took three weeks to get all the buckshot out. He simply shakes his head at the idea someone could so senselessly harm such an beautiful creature.
Noel and his wife have a particularly nice gift shop, but the thing I enjoyed the most was seeing his tree house. Noel and Dick said they don’t usually take people down to see it, but as I was by myself they kindly took me down the garden path to see it (ha). Noel and a pal many years ago found a very large stump and somehow or another came up with the idea of carving out the centre, turning it upside down, building a cool roof for it, and turning it into .... a tree house. Hell, you should see this place. Large enough to walk into and they have three carved chairs inside and a old burl table and little windows and art work carved/painted into the walls and ceilings. Seriously, this is a cool tree house. The hobbits of Lord of the Rings should be so lucky. I really wish you could have seen this place. Never ever would I have thought someone would take the time to build a mad hatter tree house in the middle of the Haida Gwaii.
As I said it was a top, top, top week and I’m sorry to go on for so long, but I wanted to share some of what I was up to. Oh, I did work as well, but the other stuff was much more fun. You have a great week. Tomorrow I’m climbing up to Spirit Lake which overlooks the inlet. Should be fun. Wish you were here. Kelly
Note the photo (lower right) is taken at the mouth of the Yakoun River of a washed down stump. This is one of the major river's on the island. The word in Haida means 'river of life'.
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