Kelly Date June 8, 2010

Hi all! I'm glad I held off blogging again until after I got back from Skedans. It was a very amazing day and a group of eight spent about six hours in a boat in and around Louise Island, stopping at several places along the way. Skendans, was of course the main stop of interest and we spent about two hours there sitting on the beach eating lunch and touring around the old village site to view the remaining totem poles of the Tanu Haida.

It started out to be a cold, windy, and raining day, however by about 10:30 or 11:00 it started to clear up and we enjoyed a very sunny and warm day. Ha, I have the red cheeks to prove it. Of course, I sat right at the front

of the boat so I could get some good photos and I'm hoping they actually load today. It was a bit of a rough ride up there though so most of those

didn't turn out too well. Ha, but I was thrilled to spend the day with my face to the sun and the wind in my hair. Awesome!

One of the Haida Watchmen (a woman) greeted us at Skedans and we all signed in so they can keep track of the number of visitors. The Watchmen have guarded these old villages sites sin

ce the early 1970's as people were removing things from the villages. At times, people used chain saws to remove portions of the poles and drug them away behind their boats. So, they have made it an offical program now where Haida people take training and stay at one of about seven sites for anywhere from one to two months at a time.

The time spent wandering around these ancient poles was mesmerizing. I was glad that I had read the book about the poles at Skedans previously so I knew a little bit of what they were talking about already. For the most part, I hung back so I could take photographs and film some of the goings on. There were several

large groups of poles which sit all helter-skelter in the village with small trees growing out of them. This happened as some of the poles had burial boxes on, or inside of the them and this is where the more recent rot and growth stems from. The one pole I have here is a close up of the face, but you can see all the small trees and bushes that have sprouted up from the front of the pole.

It was a glorious day and I'm so glad the weather turned out. Moresby Island Explorers did a great job of ferrying us around and helping make the day memorable. I was so tired though by the time we got back I could barely keep my eyes open - in fact I tottered over onto the should of the poor lady sitting next to me a couple of times. Ha, my humble apologies. As per usual, I couldn't sleep the night before as I was so excited about the trip.

I hope you enjoy the photos I've included. I had great fun just taking them. Enjoy. Oh, its my birthday on Friday and we're going out - a beach party in front of the Haida Heritage Centre where I'm working and smores. Woo Woo. I always wondered where I'd turn 50 and now I know. Couldn't think of a better place. Great day, Kelly

Artist, Marcel Russ

Hello. I’ve been very busy this week, but don’t feel like I’ve accomplished much. Working at the Kaay ‘Llnagaay Haida Heritage Centre is a lot of fun, but it does seem to take a lot of time to get things done. Everything I do seems to depend on someone else doing their bit, which holds things up. Ha, I’m not used to working for government organizations anymore lol.

Regardless, it’s a great place to work though and I really do enjoy it. The people are wonderful and you get to meet people from around the world. Just today, I met an elderly couple from Burnaby, BC and yesterday ladies from New Zealand and Australia; last week it was a fellow from England looking to do some kayaking in the area. You never know who you’ll meet, which makes it fun.

I've included several photos today of Marcelle Russ, who is the local carver I mentioned last week. I wanted to include a few more pictures to give you some idea of the area of the Haida Heritage Centre where carvers can come to work. It is quite interesting to watch them and I enjoyed hanging out, if only for a while. I've been waiting for them to come back and finish but I've not seen then again. Will have to keep you posted on the final outcome if I'm fortunate enough to be here at

the right time. Note: I'll try to add the photos a bit later. The system is not being agreeable lately. (The photo to left is actually from a Bill Reid pole carving.)

I’m looking forward to my trip down to Skedans next week on Louise Island. I’m going by boat with Morseby Island Explorers who have been outfitting in this area for some time. Should be fun and I’m hoping to see some whales. I’ve not seen any quite yet, which has been a little disappointing.

Over the weekend I’ll just be working and nothing much to report so will leave off blogging this coming Sunday. I’ll post another blog on Wednesday to tell you how the big adventure goes and will have a few great pictures to share with you for sure.

Have a great day,

Kelly

Kelly Date June 1, 2010

SIing Gaay Laa,

I must apologize for again being late with posting my blog. Ha, I have no excuses – just totally forgot to get it done. I’ve been busy working and this weekend there was a science fair at the Heritage Centre. There were a number of school and other organizations represented there and even a group from Vancouver Island University.

Sunday and Monday were spent working, but today was a lot of fun as I was chatting with one of the carvers in the canoe shed. He was commissioned by a rich gentleman from England to carve a totem pole for him. The carver is Marcelle Russ and he is of course Haida and a friendly soul who was pleased at my interest.

He is an amazing carver and the shapes and figures on the pole are wonderful. He has included the frog and a killer whale and other storey figures. I am partial to the frog and the Haida Man from the centre of the totem. I’ve included this photo as he is not quite finished yet, but I like that fact that the carving itself is quite rough looking still.

Other than that I’ve been trying again to set up my trip to Skeedans and another trip to South Moresby. There are so many wonderful places to visit and I truly hope I can get as much time in exploring as humanly possible between now and when I return to Nanaimo.

Hope you all have a great day,

Blog later, Kelly

Kelly Date May 27, 2010

Bear Storey....

Hey, thought I'd check in and let you know what I've been up too. I've been quite busy since this past Sunday and took most of Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday to wander around. I've walked into town two more times - yikes, very long walk. The best was that I saw a bear! Ha, I realize that to some this might not been too exciting, but this was my bear lol. He was only a year old cub and about 150 lbs and cute as anything.

I was riding around with Dick (Haida Guide), and coming back down from the trail head to Sleeping Beauty Mountain. I saw him first and this little black bear was right at the edge of the road and turned back to look at us. I guess he got curious as he decided to climb the tree about 6 feet up and hang out looking at us, looking at him. He later climbed back down to get a closer look at this strange lady smiling at him from the truck.

I of course immediately got out of the vehicle to get up real close to get a great photo - ha ha just kidding. I stayed in the vehicle the whole time, but he was so close to us it didn't matter. He was within six feet of me and I had the window almost rolled up to the top, the whole time. Yes, they are cute but I'm no fool and realize how quick they can be in your face. We sat there for about five minutes taking each other in and then went on our way. I have some film footage that I will try to post as well. No promises, but a picture for sure.

Having a great time here in Haida Gwaii.

Me :)

Kelly Date May 24, 2010

Hey, sorry for the delaying posting the blog, but getting access to the internet can be problematic out here in the ida Gwaii Islands. So here it is......

How can one top amazing? They come to the Haida Gwaii! Seriously, anyone who’s never been here is totally missing out. I had a great week working at the Qay ‘Llnagaay and managed to get a lot done, but the highlight was getting to go out in the Loo Taas. This is a traditional Haida Canoe and even better, the fact that it was designed and carved by Bill Reid. It was such a privilege to get this opportunity. You may not know it, but Bill Reid is not only one of the most well known Haida artists, he was also a prominent Canadian artist. If you’ve been through the Vancouver Airport his huge bronze statue is on dislay in the international area of the airport. Being taken out with a Haida steersman, Andy, and a group of students from Sarnia was an honour. I have included a couple of pictures for you to see. I took some amazing photos and I wish I could share them all with you. Eagles, seals, waves crashing, paddlers paddling, and making our way around Indian Head Island.

Next up I spent my day off hanging out with a fellow by the name of Dick Bellows. He is a local Haida tour guide and obviously knowledgeable about the people and their history, culture, traditions, and the island’s many points of interest. We left at 9:30 in the morning and didn’t get back until almost 6:00 that night. We took a circuitous route north, up to Tlell, Port Clements and then made our way south again after stopping at some key places. Briefly, we stopped at Dick’s ‘Big Tree’, in which his grandfather had found an old pot many years ago wedged up in the centre of the split wood at the bottom. He grandfather took out and used it the rest of his life. Dick has the pot in his home to this day. We then went to see an ancient cedar canoe that was left in the woods by Haida carvers probably a 100+ years ago. What an amazing sight to see such a thing. Again, I have included a picture that will give you an idea of what I’m talking about.

Next we went to see the world’s largest Sitka Spruce tree (above) and the photo shows me standing in the middle to give you a bit of scale. It is one freaken huge tree. Wow. We trailed along old back trails and forestry roads to get there, but it was worth the trip. The tree is over 700 years old and over 250 high. It was all interesting as Dick was full of old stories and tales about his island. Our final destination was to head west to Rennell Sound, which is the furthest westerly point in BC. It was wonderful and we had to cross the Coastal Mountains and then drop back down to sea level on the other side. An amazing day and to top it off when we got back we ended up going to another potlatch and ate way too much again.

Last night was great as well. I headed off on foot to Queen Charlotte City just to see the place. It was further than I thought, but I had fun regardless as I took along some

tunes and the sun was shining and the scenery along the highway was spectacular. The roadway runs along the Skidegate Inlet and it is incredibly scenic. I took some photos of the entryway to the little town to show you how pretty everything is kept. Buildings are either really interesting or very quaint and very well taken care of. One place of note was Marvin’s garden (below left). Marvin is a Haida man and loves to garden as much as possible. He says he and his wife spend most of their summers puttering around their home. Can’t say as I blame them as they look out on what I would consider one of the most beautiful views in the world. Tough to beat living in a place like this. Marvin says he never ceases to marvel at the beauty around him and often just stops to look and take it all in.

Today, I spent a bit more time with Dick and he took me again out toward Tlell and an area of the island that has a number of artisans. Some of these small stores carry handmade Haida art. Silver braclets, shell jewellery, carvings, paddles, bowls, cedar bark hats, incredible paints, and and gold and silver pendants. Ha, at one point I whispered to Dick that I needed to get out of there before I spent horrible amounts of money. Ha, I departed with a card and a present for each of my daughters.

One of the more interesting places was where Noel lives. He also likes to garden, but wow this place was over the top unique. He is incredibly talented. There are flower beds and garden walkways and chickens running around to keep pesky bugs away. These are accompanied by pet ducks and a trumpeter swan he and his wife rescued some time ago. Apparently, someone had filled it full of buckshot and the swan approached his wife, injured and bleeding. This beautiful creature would certainly have died without their help. Noel said it took three weeks to get all the buckshot out. He simply shakes his head at the idea someone could so senselessly harm such an beautiful creature.

Noel and his wife have a particularly nice gift shop, but the thing I enjoyed the most was seeing his tree house. Noel and Dick said they don’t usually take people down to see it, but as I was by myself they kindly took me down the garden path to see it (ha). Noel and a pal many years ago found a very large stump and somehow or another came up with the idea of carving out the centre, turning it upside down, building a cool roof for it, and turning it into .... a tree house. Hell, you should see this place. Large enough to walk into and they have three carved chairs inside and a old burl table and little windows and art work carved/painted into the walls and ceilings. Seriously, this is a cool tree house. The hobbits of Lord of the Rings should be so lucky. I really wish you could have seen this place. Never ever would I have thought someone would take the time to build a mad hatter tree house in the middle of the Haida Gwaii.

As I said it was a top, top, top week and I’m sorry to go on for so long, but I wanted to share some of what I was up to. Oh, I did work as well, but the other stuff was much more fun. You have a great week. Tomorrow I’m climbing up to Spirit Lake which overlooks the inlet. Should be fun. Wish you were here. Kelly

Note the photo (lower right) is taken at the mouth of the Yakoun River of a washed down stump. This is one of the major river's on the island. The word in Haida means 'river of life'.

Kelly Date May 17, 2010

Siing Gaay Laaw, from Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. This

greeting means 'good day' in Haida. Apparently, I had it wrong last week - Maawa is 'thank you' in Haida. I've been quite busy as you may have guessed and a little late sitting down to do my Sunday blog. But I've been having a wonderful time, working hard and getting to know people, which is quite easy as everyone has been so nice.

I had a fellow stop and offer me a ride just this morning which was nice. I spend a lot of time walking back and forth so it was a welcome break from hoofing it. His name is Dick Bellis, born and raised in the Haida Gwaii. He is retired and offered to do some inland tours which his occupation at the moment. Nice guy and obviously knows everyone and everything about the islands. I'll likely go with him tomorrow to see some of the sights and get some photos; however, it is also a great opportunity to interview him for my research. As it turns out we both have an agenda of some sort - works for me lol.

I attended my first potlatch on Saturday evening and it was truly amazing. About 650 people attended and I thoroughly enjoyed listening to the drumming and the singing. Much more so than I thought I might. Somehow, it is quite different to be physically present so you can feel the beat of the drums and the rhythms of the singers. The costumes were colourful with intricate designs and detailing the two Haida clans: The Ravens and The Eagles. I've included a few pictures to get an idea of what happened.

Oh, and the food was amazing - served from a centre table by designated servers, but the trick is you're supposed to bring your own plate. Of course, I wasn't let in on this little fact so didn't go to get any food. The kind lady sitting next to me suggested that I should go up anyway as they do have some paper plates for people who have forgotten to bring their own. Yes! I was treated to soup, crab, octopus cakes, salads, and gauwa (dried and boiled kelp with salmon eggs on it). Everything, with the exception of the 'gauwa' was great. I'd tried gauwa dried earlier and it was good, but the kind at the meal was soaked in a brine of some sort and didn't appeal to me at all. It was a wonderful experience and one I'd highly recommend. The children and youth did most of the dancing and the excitement to be performing for the new Chief, Reg Young, was obvious.

Although I've been busy, I have managed to go on several walks in the evenings. I headed toward Queen Charlotte City and stopped at a rocky area along the highway to take some photos. It was a beautiful evening and I totally lucked out when I spied an eagle eating something on the shore about 200 yards away from me. I of course hauled out the camera and started working my way towards him. I got close enough to take some amazing photos and included one here for you to see. They are such amazing creatures and he flew right over top of me once he had decided I was close enough. Wow!

On Wednesday, I'm taking a tour down to Louise Island to do some whale watching. Well that's the plan anyway. I'll let you know how it turns out. I didn't get an opportunity to help count the Ancient Murrletes (synthliboramphus antiquus) as they had enough volunteers this time. However, it is still an option for a future date. Hopefully, I will get a chance to do this. I would really like to take part in this conservation effort.

Anyway, I will report back once I've been out with Dick Bellis (his Haida name is 'Skil Q' Aas') and the whale watching tour to Louise Island. I should have some great photos to share with you.

Have a great day! Howaa :)

Kelly Date May 13, 2010

I know it’s a bit early to be reporting in, but wanted to do an update of everything that’s happened since arriving in Skidegate. First, I’ve met a ton of really nice people, who have all been welcoming and open. I've also been invited to my first potlatch which is absolutely wonderful. I plan on being there at some point this Saturday, but am scheduled to work for a good chunk of the day so will probably miss out on some of the festivities.

I have also been trying to work out an opportunity to do some conservation work with Ancient Murrlets, a small bird whose habitat is on Louise Island, just of Graham Island. Apparently, they are endangered and we get to catch and tag them and let them go. I guess the catching is easy as they walk 5 km through the forest, on very short legs, to get to the waters edge and then swim a great

distance to reach their parents who call to them. Cute little things and I really hope to get a chance to do this. Nick, the son of the lady I’m staying with, is doing this with his high school classmates and asked if I was interested in helping out.

The Qay (pronounced Kii) Cultural Centre is about a ten minute walk from where I’m staying and the township itself is a further ten minute walk down the road. Of course there is a coffee shop and internet service at the end of the route so I’ve spent quite a lot of time walking since arriving. The views are spectacular and everything is right on the bay so it is very beautiful. Apparently, the whales were in the bay just the week before, but they should come back so I’m sure to get a chance to take some photos.

The ferry coming into town was so amazing. We arrived just as they sun came up behind us, which lit up the whole town. I've attached one picture of this and several others I thought were striking. I’ve included a few pictures of totem poles as well to give you an idea of what I get to look at everyday. There are lots of eagles around, and land otters, and bears etc. I took a tour just this afternoon on the totem poles which was very interesting. Apparently there are only 13 clans (large family groups) remaining on the islands.

The rest were killed off during in the 1600's - 1800' from small pox epidemics. The estimate I heard was that the population went from 30,000 down to about 600-800 individuals at its lowest. The fan to the right is lined with fur and was done by an artist in Skidegate. It is really quite beautiful and I was able to take photos of it for the marketing fellow.

Other words that you need to know... well maybe not, are "Gouw", which means salmon eggs on the kelp and "Chow" which is a rude word for certain parts of one's anatomy. Just so you know. Another phrase used to greet people at the cultural centre is Siing Gaay Laaw, which means "Good Day". The spelling is left up to a best guess as traditionally they did not have a written language it was story based and passed on from generation to generation through clan affiliation and elders. I've learned much already and will share other things as they come up.

I'll blog again this coming Sunday and should have some photos of the potlatch to share with you. Have a great day .... I have to get back to work.

Hawaa (how-wah), or thank you in Haida.

Kelly.